The Corner House in Worthing - Review
PUBLISHED: 10:06 29 November 2016 | UPDATED: 10:06 29 November 2016
Prior to it winning the Celebration of Sussex Life Award for best newcomer, Duncan Hall visited the venue shaking up Worthing's pub scene
After more than 13 years running pubs in Brighton brothers Matt and Tim Taylor have brought their carefully honed skills to their home town.
And following the clamour which met their transformation of seafront terrace bar The Beach House with partner Darren Gearing, in less than a year their next project The Corner House is setting a standard for Worthing’s pub culture.
The former Stage pub in High Street has been taken back to its roots with a beautiful makeover. From the varnished wooden floors to the tiled bar the venue looks both atmospheric and lived in, reflecting the pub’s long history in the town. “We did trips up to London to look at a few well-known North London pubs,” says Matt.
It is on the bar and in the kitchen that the new owners are really making their mark. They have eschewed the beers and lagers usually found in town pubs in favour of craft beers and local ales including Burning Sky and Punk IPA.
Producing the magic in the kitchen is former Brighton Bath Arms and Stanmer House chef John Hayes-Davis. He may be offering a menu of pub classics, but he has made them his own. The pub staple of rib eye steak and chips (£14.95) was expertly cooked and sauced, the peppercorns, tomatoes and roasted shallots complementing rather than overpowering the meat. But the real surprise was in the signature vegetarian dish of roast cauliflower and celeriac strudel (£11.95). The combination of flavours with spinach, potato and herb sauce ensured only the pattern was left on the plate. Other options included home-cured ham, egg and chips (£9.95); homemade steak and ale pie (£11.95); classic fish and chips (£9.95); and the ubiquitous house burger (£8.95) – served with fries and slaw. Following the waiter’s recommendation we shared a giant slab of American cheesecake with a smear of berry sauce (£5.50).
The only sticking point came with the service, which, although extremely warm and friendly, was a little slapdash. The rump steak had to be tackled without a steak knife and the ingenious system of using a numbered wooden spoon to denote a bar tab on the table fell down when the spoon was cleared away by an overenthusiastic waiter. These are minor, easily fixed criticisms, which didn’t detract from a good quality meal from a deserved award winner. Hopefully The Corner House will encourage more Worthing’s pubs to up their game.
For more information visit www.cornerhouseworthing.co.uk.
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