<div style="display:inline;"> <img height="1" width="1" style="border-style:none;" alt="" src="//googleads.g.doubleclick.net/pagead/viewthroughconversion/1028731116/?value=0&amp;guid=ON&amp;script=0">
6 ISSUES FOR £6 Subscribe to Sussex Life today click here

The Salt Room in Brighton - restaurant review

PUBLISHED: 11:14 04 August 2015 | UPDATED: 16:01 06 November 2017

The Salt Room

The Salt Room

Archant

The Salt Room is the latest addition to Brighton seafront’s dining scene. The brainchild of the team behind The Coal Shed, it’s already making waves, as Jenny Mark-Bell discovers

Fish soup Fish soup

The Salt Room is the latest addition to the empire of local businessman Razak Helalat, who also owns The Coal Shed, which has become locally famous for its steaks. Being one of those finicky eaters, I don’t do steaks, so in the four years since that restaurant has opened I have known it by reputation alone. Now The Salt Room, under the direction of Head Chef Dave Mothersill, will be bringing similar cooking principles to bear on cooking fish.

The restaurant enjoys a knock-out position on Brighton seafront, what seems like mere inches from the ruined West Pier – what will be the site of the i360 viewing tower. There’s a nice terrace outside for summer days and the restaurant has been agreeably decorated, industrial-style, with reclaimed wood, exposed brick, and what are probably called innovative lighting concepts.

Soon after being seated by the denim apron-clad staff, who are friendly and informal, yet also professionally knowledgeable, we got our amuse bouche – a dainty little draught of consommé with wild garlic and a flavoursome cuttlefish fritter.

My starter, a fish soup, came beautifully presented, with pickled mackerel, breaded mussel, squid ribbons and crayfish tenderly arranged in a bowl. The soup itself came in a little jug, which the smiling waitress poured on top with some ceremony. That was just the right amount of drama, because the flavours were on point: interesting enough to be stimulating, not too showy to be enjoyable.

Carl chose a special: langoustines served with a wild garlic mayonnaise. I managed to distract his attention for long enough to procure a forkful, and it was very fine: with that gorgeous ozone taste of the freshest seafood.

I felt it my professional duty to try out the Josper grill, which you can see from the restaurant, and asked for half a lobster to follow, with a charcoal mayonnaise.

When the latter arrived, it was inky and extraordinary, like a barbecue in a bottle (well, in a dish, but you know what I mean). The sweet, buttery lobster was a dream and the kitchen does a good chip, too.

Carl’s divinely cooked sea bass came with pickled vegetables, an unexpected match, but one that worked well: he even approved of the cauliflower, which is a wonder (I tried hard not to feel hurt on behalf of the rejected brassicas I have served over the years).

We finished with what proved to be something of an architectural and culinary wonder: the show-stopping sharing platter, Taste of the Pier. Anyone who has pledged their fiefdom to the wonder of a pier doughnut will love this, as it is basically an upscale version of all the naughty things you’ll find on the boardwalk: candy floss is flavoured with rhubarb, there’s a mini ‘99’ ice cream and all manner of decadent, kiss-me-quick treats. If you’re looking for a dessert that sums up Brighton for pit-stop visitors, here it is.

Taste of the Pier Taste of the Pier

106 King’s Road, Brighton, BN1 2FU; 01273 929488; saltroom-restaurant.co.uk

0 comments

Welcome , please leave your message below.

Optional - JPG files only
Optional - MP3 files only
Optional - 3GP, AVI, MOV, MPG or WMV files
Comments

Please log in to leave a comment and share your views with other Sussex Life visitors.

We enable people to post comments with the aim of encouraging open debate.

Only people who register and sign up to our terms and conditions can post comments. These terms and conditions explain our house rules and legal guidelines.

Comments are not edited by Sussex Life staff prior to publication but may be automatically filtered.

If you have a complaint about a comment please contact us by clicking on the Report This Comment button next to the comment.

Not a member yet?

Register to create your own unique Sussex Life account for free.

Signing up is free, quick and easy and offers you the chance to add comments, personalise the site with local information picked just for you, and more.

Sign up now

More from Food & Drink

Voting is now open for the 2018 Celebration of Sussex Life Awards. It’s our fifth annual championing of the county’s stars and will be taking place at The Grand Hotel, Brighton on Thursday 25 October

Read more

Whether you’re looking for fine dining, pub food, a romantic meal for 2 or a taste of something from further afield, eating out in Sussex really has something for everyone. Here’s our guide to the best local restaurants and pubs

Read more

Our new restaurant reviewer Laura Paton visits the Sir Roger Tichborne, a community pub set in great walking country in Loxwood

Read more

Michael Bremner’s casual family dining offering is a boon to Brighton’s busy seafront

Read more

What could be nicer than a sleepy Sunday afternoon in one of our beautiful Sussex pubs? Here are some of our favourites...

Read more

Cowdray Farm Shop Café has a fresh, healthy menu that is the perfect antidote to festive overindulgence

Read more

There's no shortage of Sussex-based confectioners to call on if your Valentine has a sweet tooth

Read more

We don’t think picnics should be exclusive to the summer months. Here are places to head for an outdoor feast this Valentine’s Day

Read more
 
Great British Holidays advert link

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Topics of Interest

Food and Drink Directory

Subscribe or buy a mag today

subscription ad

Local Business Directory

Sussex's trusted business finder

Job search in your local area



Property Search