CHRISTMAS OFFER Subscribe to Sussex Life today CLICK HERE

Great British Menu winner Michael Bremner’s Murmur in Brighton: Restaurant review

PUBLISHED: 10:45 13 March 2018

Murmur is in the King's Road Arches on Brighton seafront

Murmur is in the King's Road Arches on Brighton seafront

Archant

Michael Bremner’s casual family dining offering is a boon to Brighton’s busy seafront

Brighton has been blessed with so many exciting new restaurant launches of late that we could probably dedicate all of 2018’s remaining restaurant reviews to the city. We won’t – there is too much going on elsewhere – but it’s an exciting time to be a piggy in the city.

We’d long wanted to visit Murmur, Great British Menu 2017 winner Michael Bremner’s casual seafront dining venture, and it didn’t disappoint. After a warm welcome from the charming and enthusiastic young staff we cast an eye over the menu. It’s more laidback in style than Bremner’s other Brighton restaurant, the much-praised 64 Degrees, with six choices for starters and mains. The website advertises the restaurant as child-friendly and this proved to be no idle boast – a mother and her young son were dining à deux next to us which I thought rather lovely.

There’s a great wine list with some tempting cocktails including a Negroni Sbagliato and the exquisite-sounding Raspberry Beret (Pimms, raspberry, mint, cucumber, egg white and lemonade). There are plenty of options for non-drinkers – four ‘softtails’ including the Electric Lady which I sampled (a very refreshing blend of lemon, pomegranate and mint ) – and a good homemade lemonade.

I chose the lobster croquettes (£10) to start – there were also venison croquettes on the specials menu. Without wishing to be too hyperbolic, I would ask to be served these as part of my last meal. There were three perfect little mouthfuls and I could have done with nine, but that’s my only quibble. I was so moved by the creaminess of the filling (contrasting beautifully with the crispness of the casing) that I asked the waiter how they did it. Apparently it’s a sort of béchamel made without cream or milk – just butter and the lobster. All I can say is I hope they keep doing it. It was served with crispy kale which proved the perfect foil. Similarly appreciative noises were coming from the other side of the table as my husband got behind a portion of smoked aubergine tagliatelle served with truffle, egg yolk and parmesan (£10.50). It was rich but he said he would have gladly sacrificed comfort to eat more.

Jerk-roasted butternut squash (£14) was tasty and vibrant, the spicing (cinnamon and nutmeg plus, I thought, cloves) recalling Christmas just past. The richness of those flavours was offset by a creamy tahini dressing and pecorino cheese. I enjoyed the salted cucumber too. Roast cod (£17) came with a wedge of charred cauliflower and almond crumb, delightful little brown shrimp and a buttery sauce and went down very well, being described as “delicious but healthy-tasting.”

Date and fig pudding (£7) was richly comforting, a sumptuous winter treat. Atop the syrupy, textured sponge was a sliver of praline and a little quenelle of clotted cream ice cream. It was perfect to share.

The restaurant adds a 12.5 per cent service charge to the bill and on the evidence of our experience at least, it’s fully deserved – our waiter had the exuberance and willingness to please of a children’s television presenter. Murmur’s position in the seafront arches opposite the West Pier means it is highly in-demand in the summer months (even in January our lunch reservation was limited to two hours, and the number of covers doubles when the restaurant is able to utilise its outdoor seating), so my advice would be to book now.

Kings Road Arches, 91-96, Brighton BN1 2FN; 01273 711900; murmur-restaurant.co.uk

More…

Eating out in Sussex - Best restaurants - Whether you’re looking for fine dining, pub food, a romantic meal for 2 or a taste of something from further afield, eating out in Sussex really has something for everyone. Here’s our guide to the best local restaurants and pubs

0 comments

Welcome , please leave your message below.

Optional - JPG files only
Optional - MP3 files only
Optional - 3GP, AVI, MOV, MPG or WMV files
Comments

Please log in to leave a comment and share your views with other Sussex Life visitors.

We enable people to post comments with the aim of encouraging open debate.

Only people who register and sign up to our terms and conditions can post comments. These terms and conditions explain our house rules and legal guidelines.

Comments are not edited by Sussex Life staff prior to publication but may be automatically filtered.

If you have a complaint about a comment please contact us by clicking on the Report This Comment button next to the comment.

Not a member yet?

Register to create your own unique Sussex Life account for free.

Signing up is free, quick and easy and offers you the chance to add comments, personalise the site with local information picked just for you, and more.

Sign up now

More from Food & Drink

Brighton’s The Chilli Pickle is celebrating its tenth anniversary. Co-founder Alun Sperring talks about his passions

Read more

The 2018 Celebration of Sussex Life Awards are fast approaching, with the ceremony taking place at The Grand Hotel, Brighton on 25 October. We’re delighted to announce our finalists…

Read more

Whether you’re looking for fine dining, pub food, a romantic meal for 2 or a taste of something from further afield, eating out in Sussex really has something for everyone. Here’s our guide to the best local restaurants and pubs

Read more

Cuckfield’s Ockenden Manor offers a spectacular panorama while you eat

Read more

Laura Paton has found a great restaurant off the beaten track in Sidlesham – but keep it under your hat

Read more

Treat yourself, family and friends to lunch and afternoon tea with a visit to one of these fantastic Sussex tea rooms

Read more

There are some fantastic restaurants and cafés in Eastbourne serving up delectable food and catering for all tastes. We round up some of the best…

Read more

The market own of Horsham is home to some delightful restaurants and pubs. We round up some of the best

Read more

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Our Privacy Policy

Topics of Interest

Food and Drink Directory

Subscribe or buy a mag today

subscription ad

Local Business Directory


Property Search